Falkland Islands
The French vessel
Uranie safely rounded Cape Horn on 6 February 1820, causing Rose
de Freycinet to remark that "we were at last sailing in the ocean
which washes the shores of France and we thought that we were
already home." The
Uranie anchored in the Bay of Good Success (coast
of Argentina) only to be forced out to sea by a storm before anyone
could go ashore. After the storm subsided, the
Uranie had been
pushed too far to the north to warrant returning to the Bay of Good
Success, so Freycinet decided to continue to the Falklands to
reconnoitre the eastern-most island of the group, then called Ile
Conti. He decided to anchor in the Baie Française because of the
apparent existence of animals that could be hunted for food and
because he believed the islands to be inhabited and that he would be
able to get news from France. "We considered ourselves to have
reached the end of our long voyage" wrote Freycinet, "We had just
entered the Atlantic and almost completed our circumnavigation. We
indulged in the sweet hope that we would soon see our dear homeland
and pay it homage with our numerous studies and collections that we
had gathered. In short, we congratulated ourselves for our success
and we were proud of having completed such a long expedition without
any serious misfortunes or damage to the vessel."
The
Uranie entered the Baie Française on a clear day with a
favourable breeze. In spite of the usual precautions taken when
approaching unfamiliar shores, the ship hit a submerged rock and
suddenly stopped with a violent jolt. Pieces of wood floating in the
water suggested that a serious hole had been pierced in the hull.
Freycinet immediately ordered the crew to the pumps, but the rising
water in the hold made him realise that he would have to run the
Uranie aground in order to save the crew and collections. While
attempting to reach a sandy shore inside the bay, night fell and the
breeze dropped. To run the
Uranie into the steep rocky shore would
have resulted in certain loss of life. "More unfortunate even than
La Pérouse's crew," wrote Freycinet, "nobody would ever have known
our fate, everything would have been swallowed by the deep sea." The
crew manned the pumps continuously, singing to maintain their
spirits and stave off their fatigue. At 3 o'clock on the morning of
15 February, 1820, the
Uranie was run aground on the south side of
the bay.
Above: The wrecked Uranie,
boats evacuating collections off the vessel and the camp on shore
click here for the full zoomable image
At daybreak, the crew of the
Uranie regarded the land where they had
been so unexpectedly wrecked with feelings of anxiety. The shore
appeared arid, everywhere there were sand dunes, bare mountains and
the ground was devoid of even the smallest of shrubs. "In many
respects," wrote Freycinet, "one could have compared the barrenness
to that which so grieved our eyes in Shark Bay."
According to his report, Freycinet's first concern, once the
Uranie
had been safely run aground, was to safeguard the expedition's
papers and journals. In Rose's words: "What a cruel blow it would be
for us to witness the disappearance of two long years of painstaking
labour!" They managed to save the papers and journals, but
unfortunately lost some of the collections that had been in the
hold. They did manage to save, however, several merino sheep that
MacArthur had given them at Port Jackson. These were taken ashore
and well looked after, even when food became scarce.
Above: Drawing made from a high point of French
Bay in the Falkland Islands
In the distance to the left is the wrecked Uraine and
on the right are ruined buildings
On 18 February, 1820, Freycinet sent sub-lieutenant Auguste Bérand
to Saint Louis cove where Louis Antoine de Bougainville had
established a French colony in 1764. The colony was relatively
short-lived, being handed over, for a substantial sum, to Spain in
1767. Not knowing if there remained any inhabitants at the Saint
Louis settlement, Freycinet asked Bérand, on seeing anyone, to
apprise them of the situation that the crew of the
Uranie found
itself in, and to get help if possible. Ship's surgeon Quoy and
midshipman Guérin were also part of the expedition.
The party found the settlement uninhabited and in ruins. Quoy
described his emotional response to the ruins of Bougainville's
colony, where, he wrote, "once lived French people; here our
language was once spoken, I said to myself, and hard-working
families may have tasted happiness. We glimpsed the site of the
fort, the walls of a church, an elegant house built of stone which
must have belonged to the governor." They observed, written in
charcoal on the wall of one house, inscriptions detailing visits of
other ships to the island. None of the buildings had a roof and the
colony was deemed unsuitable for habitation. The seven members of
the party spent the night in a large brick oven.
Above: Drawing of ruined buildings at the Saint
Louis settlement in the Falklands in 1820
By 29 February, the camp in the Baie Française was well and truly
established. Rose wrote that "a tent has been pitched for the
carpenters and another for the blacksmiths. Our camp looks like a
small village; there is a tent for Louis, one for the equipment and
the records where we will also take our meals, one for the staff,
one for the midshipmen and one for the volunteers. Three other tents
have been pitched, for the hospital, the sailors' barracks and the
masters respectively. There are also small tents for the cooks and
the supplies. At some distance from the camp is the powder magazine
where arms and ammunition are kept under lock and key."
A group of men were assigned the job of hunters; they killed seals,
birds, penguins and several horses which the crew ate, with varying
levels of appreciation. In Guam, the Governor had given the ship's
chaplain, Abbé Quélen, a large sack of flour made from a local
plant, because he found it made a good hair powder. The sack was
salvaged after the shipwreck and the cook requisitioned it to make
bread. More sacks were found which had been taken on board as pig
feed. "We are all happy;" wrote Rose, the Abbé is delighted to be
eating his curling powder, while I am pleased to share my piglets'
dinner!" She became less pleased over the following weeks,
eventually describing the buns as unpleasant and not nutritious.
Above: Drawing of the camp in the Falkland Islands
in 1820
During the stay in the Falklands, the group of hunters managed to
cause a bush fire, which was cause for concern for several days
until it was extinguished by rain. Meanwhile, Freycinet and his
officers continued with their scientific observations. The
Uranie having been declared irreparable, the sailors set about
repairing and refitting the ship's longboat which Freycinet planned
to send to Montevideo. There the crew would charter a ship to rescue
the crew and cargo of the Uranie.
Towards the end of March, 1820, an American ship the
Mercury
came into the Baie Française to do repairs on its way to the
Pacific. Freycinet managed to negotiate a passage for the crew of
the
Uranie on board the
Mercury which weighed
anchor on 27 April and headed towards Montevideo. During the
passage, Freycinet purchased the
Mercury and renamed her
the
Physicienne.